Did you know that Hermès Kelly has a longer history than Birkin? The history of the Kelly handbag can be traced back to 1892, when the first handbag prototype came out. Originally, the bag was intended to be used as a saddle and was called “Haut à courroies”. In 1923, the prototype was first redesigned as a simple bag for Hermès’ wife Julie. In the 1930s, however, Mr. Hermès’ son-in-law, Robert Dumas, redesigned the bag as the more glamorous “Sac à dépêches”, which we know today as the Hermès Kelly.
In 1977, “Sac à dépêches” was named after the famous Hollywood actress, Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco. There is a big misconception that the Kelly bag is specifically designed for Grace Kelly. In fact, it’s not true! In 1954, Grace Kelly acquired the bag worn in Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief. However, she ended up loving the bag so much that she wore it regularly, even during her marriage to Prince Rainier of Monaco. Fun fact: Grace Kelly met Prince Rainier on the French Riviera, where she was filming Catch a Thief.
“Sac à dépêches” shot to fame in 1956, when then-Princess Grace Kelly was pictured holding it up on her stomach in an attempt to conceal her pregnancy from the media. The photo ended up on the front pages of magazines around the world. So people began to compare “Sac à dépêches” to Kelly bags. However, it wasn’t until 1977 that Hermès decided to officially rename the bag.
Today, the Hermes Kelly is one of the most sought-after designer bags in the world. Whether you’re considering adding Kelly to your collection or just want to learn more about the iconic style, consider this blog post your complete guide to bags.
Hermes Kelly Design

The most distinctive features of the Kelly bag include: trapezoidal shape, single top handle and shoulder straps. Interestingly, these three traits are how most people differentiate Kelly from Birkin. Unlike the Kelly, the Birkin bag has no shoulder straps. In fact, the shoulder straps on Kelly bags are often a deal breaker when it comes to choosing which bag to buy. Admit it: Today, we all love versatility. The shoulder straps on the Kelly give us the option to keep our hands free. Not only is this feature super convenient, it’s also great for travel.
Hermes Kelly Styles
If you’ve ever browsed Kelly on your favorite website, you must have noticed that there are two styles of Kelly bags: Kelly Sellier and Kelly Retourne. Before we dive into the size of the Hermes Kelly, it’s important to distinguish between the two styles.
What’s the difference between the Kelly Sellier vs. Retourne?
First, it’s important to state that Kelly Sellier and Kelly Retourne are made in exactly the same way. The only difference is the stitching of the bag. The Sellier Kelly has stitching on the outside, while the Retourne Kelly has stitching on the inside.

A surefire way to differentiate a Retourne from a Sellier is to look at the edges and stitching of the bag. The Sellier Kelly has sharp edges and distinct stitching, while the Retourne Kelly has no visible stitching, but piping. The Retourne style is also often referred to as “Souple”.

Judging the bag purely by its looks, Kelly Sellier is more formal and ladylike, while Kelly Retourne is more casual. Still, both styles of the Kelly bag are equally iconic.
Hermes Kelly Sizes
Currently, the Hermès Kelly bag is available in eight sizes: Kelly 15, Kelly 20, Kelly 25, Kelly 28, Kelly 32, Kelly 35, Kelly 40 and Kelly 50. Kelly 15s and 20s are known as mini Kelly’s, while Kelly 40s and 50s are considered best for travel. When it comes to Hermes Kelly sizing, it’s important to note that the number in the bag’s title refers to the width of its bottom. So the Kelly 15 has a base width of 15 cm, the Kelly 20 has a base width of 20 cm, and so on. See the table below for a further breakdown of Hermes Kelly sizes.
| Hermes Kelly Bag Style | Size (cm) | Size (inches) |
| Kelly 15 | 15 x 11 x 5 cm | 5.9” x 4” x 2” |
| Kelly 20 | 20 x 16 x 10 cm | 7.8” x 6.3” x 4” |
| Kelly 25 | 25 x 19 x 9 cm | 10” x 7.5” x 3.5” |
| Kelly 28 | 28 x 22 x 10 cm | 11” x 8.5” x 4” |
| Kelly 32 | 32 x 23 x 10.5 cm | 12.5” x 9” x 4” |
| Kelly 35 | 35 x 24 x 12 cm | 14” x 9.5” x 4.7” |
| Kelly 40 | 40 x 28 x 16 cm | 15.2” x 11” x 6.3” |
| Kelly 50 | 50 x 34 x 25 cm | 19.6” x 13” x 9.8” |
When it comes to Hermes Kelly, Kelly 25 and 28 are considered the most popular bag sizes. Both sizes are great options for everyday wear. They pack a bunch of essentials, but the Kelly 28 has slightly more space. However, the Kelly 25 is probably the more versatile of the two. With its compact silhouette, the Hermes Kelly 25 goes from day to night effortlessly. Plus, the Kelly 25 is compact enough to take it to formal occasions or casually cross-body.
Hermes Kelly Materials & Hardware
Common materials for Kelly bags include:
- Togo leather. One of the most popular Hermes Leathers, Togo, is a scratch resistant leather with a soft pebbled finish.
- Clemence leather. A soft, textured, scratch resistant leather with a matte look.
- Epsom leather. Hard, but also lightweight, fine-grained and scratch resistant, the Hermes Epsom leather is very durable and easy to clean.
- Swift leather. Usually used in lighter, brighter colors for the Kelly, swift is a soft leather with fine grain.
- Chevre. A lightweight and scratch resistant goatskin leather.
- Box Calf. Hard, but also extremely smooth leather with a glossy finish. Most commonly used in Vintage Kelly bags.
Hermès uses harder leathers like Box Calf or Epsom for the Sellier Kelly, and softer leathers like Togo and Clemence for the Retourne Kelly.
In terms of hardware, most Kelly bags come with palladium or gold plated metal hardware. The palladium-plated hardware has a silver finish, while the gold-plated hardware has a bright and attractive finish. Typically, for gold-plated hardware, Hermès uses 18k gold. However, on rare occasions (in special order bags or rare styles) 18k gold is replaced by 24k gold.
Speaking of rare styles… In addition to the many sizes of the Kelly bag, Hermès continues to produce limited-edition styles year after year. The most popular limited edition Kelly is, without a doubt, the Himalayan Kelly. Made from Nile crocodile leather, this bag takes on subtle colors that resemble the majestic images of the Himalayas.

Hermès already produces the Himalayan Birkin and Kelly bags. However, Kelly wins on rarity. The number of Himalayan Kellys is very limited. Getting one is the dream of most handbag collectors in the world. The Himalayan Kelly is a true symbol of status and exclusivity. Needless to say, these bags are also worth the money. Just recently, a Himalaya Kelly 25 sold for a whopping $382,000 at auction!
Hermes Kelly Prices 2020
OK, we’ve learned the history of the Kelly bag, the difference between the Sellier and Retourne styles, the size and material of the Hermes Kelly bag, but what about the price? See the table below for the latest prices for Hermes Kelly Sellier and Retourne bags (Dec 2020).
| Hermes Kelly Bag Style | Price (USD) |
| Kelly 25 Epsom Sellier | $10,300 |
| Kelly 25 Togo Retourne | $9,350 |
| Kelly 28 Epsom Sellier | $10,700 |
| Kelly 28 Togo Retourne | $10,200 |
| Kelly 32 Epsom Sellier | $11,600 |
| Kelly 32 Togo Retourne | $11,000 |
| Kelly 35 Epsom Sellier | $12,700 |
| Kelly 35 Togo Retourne | $11,800 |
From the prices listed in the table, you may notice that there is a big price difference between the Kelly Sellier style and the Retourne style. For example, the Retourne Kelly 25 in Togo leather costs $ 9,350, while the Sellier’s Kelly in the same size and using Epsom leather costs $ 10,300. The difference between the two packs is a whopping $ 950! I wonder why? There’s actually a pretty logical explanation for why serie Kelly is more expensive than Liturun. This is the shape of the bag. The rigid and structured shape of Kelly Serie takes more time to complete. You may have heard that all Hermes bags are made by one craftsman. It takes more than 18-24 hours for a craftsman to complete a kelly bag. In short, extra effort and craftsmanship make Kelly Selye more expensive in all sizes.
However, the fact that Kelly Sellier is more expensive than Retourne does not mean that Kelly Retourne is a bad investment. Both Sellier and Retourne Kelly retain their value well and sell at a premium in the resale market.
You may ask, which bag should you buy? KellySellier or KellyRetourne? My best advice: Choose the bag that best suits your lifestyle. If your style is more formal or you prefer a more structured bag, choose Kelly Serie. On the other hand, if your style is more relaxed and casual, Kelly Retourne may be a better choice.
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